My summer in southern California is coming to an end. One thing that really excited me about coming to live in San Diego was the opportunity to get out and surf. I connect with nature – it’s my zen especially snowboarding, hiking and being on the water. I’ve surfed previously but never had the epiphanies as I did surfing here.
In San Diego, the waves are beach break meaning they break right at or very close to shore. Other places I’ve surfed are more point break, meaning away from shore. The waves here taught me a lot – mainly that if you can hang and get past the break, good waves will come.
This goes for life too. No set will last forever and anytime you experience perceived obstacles, hit them straight on. You will get through it. And, when nothing goes right, surf a left!